Day 11 | not Warnambool, try Killarney Beach: in which the rider becomes particularly frustrated and bikes on

84 km | Heading west total: 507 km

What is it that gives you a bad feeling about a town?

$28 campsites are a good start.

I came into Warnambool on an obscure back road and went round in circles, up and down hills, trying to find the centre of town. Then my bike got parked in by a delivery truck for half an hour while I was scoffing at Maccas.

The first camping ground had a 4 star rating. That sounded ominous so I biked on to the second. Even more lavish. Back to the first where they had closed the office but had a sign up with the $28 offer. I guess I could have sneaked in. It was now 6 30pm and at this time of year daylight fades at about 8pm.

That left an hour and a half to get to Port Fairy 28km away. Too bad about the supermarket shopping. Or the general shopping for bits and pieces I thought I needed. It was back up the hill to the highway and with a gale force easterly behind me I sped on my way.

Then I came across a cheap campsite at a great little beach. $10. Now that’s more like it.

$28 is the price for 2 people in a monstrous gas guzzling 4WD with a big tent, or over length caravan. I’m supposed to subsidise them for some reason.

And that’s $200 a week or about $900 a month for a small piece of bare dirt that bend tent pegs before penetrating and a dubious shower.

I wouldn’t get very far on my trip if I had to pay that every night.